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CARTIER: A legendary watch history.[modifier | modifier le code]

Cartier the famous brand of watch and jewellery was created in 1847 by Louis-Francois cartier.^[1] The brand over its past history as a remarkable link with prominent personalities and royalties all over the world.The prince of Whales Edward the seventh even described Cartier as the jeweller to kings and king of jeweller. This quotation express clearly the preserving connection between the brand and royalties in the 20th century. Nevertheless Cartier is also well known to be a pioneer in modern watchmaking and includes many styles or inspiration. According to the Cartier records the first step of watchmaking was in 1874 with jewelleries watches but also brooches and chatelaine for women. It was also Pocket watches for men. These pocket watches were made by onix and pearls but also motives that remind jewellery design. In the beginning of the 20th century Louis Cartier thought that wristwatch was the future and the adventure of Cartier's wristwatch started in 1904 when the brand designed its first wristwatch called the Santos Dumont.^[2]Cartier isn't the first that created a wristwatch because it was Patek Philippe in 1868 but Cartier is responsible for helping to popularize it over the traditional pocket watch.^[3].
The legendary hisory about Cartier wristwatch was born.

Cartier : the Santos legend[modifier | modifier le code]

The name of the first wristwatch creation of Cartier was inspired by one of the Louis Cartier's friend: The brazilian pioneer aviator Alberto Santos Dumont. Alberto Santos Dumont was the first to design,build and flight a practical dirigible. His conquest of the air and especially his victory of the Deutsch de la Meurthe prize of 100 000 francs in 1901 made him really famous all over the world. He was the first man to have achieved powered flight and his success and notoriety spread rapidly. Many still consider him as the father of aviation. In 1904 the aviator complained to his friend Louis Cartier that he needed both of his hands to flight and that he couldn't spare one to check his pocket watch. Louis cartier after month of work finally found with the help of Edmond Jaeger a way to solve his friend problem: A wristwatch called The santos.^[4]. Alberto Santos Dumont wore this watch on every flight thereafter including during all his world record-making. He was a celebrity and created a trend for this new product. The legend of the cartier wristwatch was in creation and is still nowadays associated to challenge , elegance and strenght.In 1908 Cartier sold Santos'wristwatch only for special order and then thanks to the success of the product it was sale in the shop from 1911 to 1973. In 1978 a new version of the Santos was launched on the market and the watch is now available on every worldwide shop but the design and the spirit still remain.^[5].

Santos Dumont remain an icon for his contribution to sciences and flight but he is also remenbered for his impeccable manners and his great elegance wearing a wristwatch from Cartier but also a Panama hat.His name will be always associated to sport but also to the Cartier' Santos.

Cartier : The Tank legend[modifier | modifier le code]

In 1917 Cartier created the well known tank line which was obviously inspired by the Renault Tanks. The Renault tanks were in used during the first world war and was part of the civilians dailylife which inspired a lot Louis-Francois Cartier. The watch line and proportions is nearly the same than the real tank seen from above.^[6]. The first prototype was created in 1917 but would have been given one year later to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force to thanks him for his bravoury actions.^[7]. The first model of the Tank will be sold nearly one year after the Armistice was signed because of the wish of Louis Cartier to sell this timeless piece only in time of peace in Europ.This wristwatch was also thought as a wristwatch for lady in order to dimish the agressivity that could come from its name and since its creation many variations of the watch have been released.^[8].

Nearly 15 collection of its watch have been created this last 95 years.

Among the most famous variation of the tank wristwatch we can notice:[modifier | modifier le code]

here the most important model.^[9].

1921: Arched tank (tank cintrée) in order to suit in a perfect way the wrist
1922: Chinese tank (tank chinoise) inspired by the architecture of the Chinese temple
1922: Louis Cartier tank set up in advance the Art deco period because of its pure design
1928: Tank a guichets symbol of modernity in a time where speed and sport is part of the dailylife
1932: Mounted tank( tank basculante) created in the thirties in order to protect the glass of the wristwatch in that great period for sport.
1936: Assymetric tank (tank asymétrique) where numbers are assymetrique. It can be considered as the contradiction of an era that needed to be modern.
1952: Rectangular tank( tank rectangulaire) more thick and often golden. It's a classical design.
1960: Mini elongated tank(mini tank allongée) more femity in its design and fitted with diamonds. It's the renewal of the jewellery tradition of the twenties.
1977: Must de Cartier tank ( les must de Cartier) a more affordable price but a quality and a design that remain in the pure tradition of the tank . Many new material used like Veirmeil.
1980: American tank( tank Américaine) can be considered as a tribute to the general Pershing.
1996: French tank( tank Francaise) the wristband is inspired by the passing treads of the tank.
2002: Couch tank (tank divan) higher volume
2012: English tank (tank anglaise)

The tank of Cartier is also accross generation a must have and this watch graced the wrist of many personnalities such as jacky Kennedy and Yves Saint Laurent.^[10]. Truman Capote the famous american writer was also a great aficionado of the Tank. In 1973 during an interview he would have said to the journalist to take his own tank because he didn't like the journalist's wristwatch. When the journalist wanted to give it back he said that he should keep it because he had seven other at home.^[11]. Tank is a passion but also a part our history or a sort of legacy.

The Tank of Cartier is still nowadays the symbol of remenbrance but it's also a symbol of peace and a question about how valuable is our time.

Cartier:The Pasha legend[modifier | modifier le code]

The creation of the Pasha is still nowadays wrapped in mystery but many stories surrounded this timeless wristwatch. The most well known start with a man called El Haj T'hami el Mezouari el Glaoui which was the lord of the Atlas but also the Pasha of Marrakech. The legend tells that the Pasha was worried because he always wanted to know the time and couldn't know it when he was swimming in his pool. In order to solve that problem he asked louis-Francois Cartier to create a waterproof wristwatch and this is the begin of the Cartier pasha.The pasha of Marrakech was a very influential man at that time and also a good allied of the French. He spent many time in Europ especially during social event or as a guest in many european courts. He also attended the coronation of Elisabeth the second as a guest invited by Winston churchill himself. The wristwatch by itself is also really different because of the grill that oartly cover the glass. The grill of metal (which is in gold in the pasha model) was really common during the second world war because it was used to protect the glass from tears. The Cartier Pasha also has another specificity: A canteen crown which was used in order to prevent water to enter the watch so this new feature increased a lot the waterproof resistance but also prevent the dust to enter in the watch mechanism.^[12].

Created in 1932 for the pasha the watch would have been in sale only in 1943.^[13]. The revival of the pasha in 1985 in a new version popularized it among men but also women.^[14]..
The Pasha became a strong presence in the world of cartier watchmaking and is also a part of the 20th century history

Other Cartier pieces of history:[modifier | modifier le code]

The baignoire de Cartier refers to the shape of an old bathtub.
The tortue was inspired by the turtle shell' shape and relate to turn around time by using the reference to the turtle.
The panthère is a kind of variation of the Santos but with a slimmer wristband in gold or gold and iron.^[15]..
The roadster was inspired by car race and velocity. This wristwatch is again a tribute to the relationship between Cartier and sport.
The Dona is a tribute to Maria Felix. She was one of the faithful cartier aficionado but also one of the greatest Latin-American actress in the world. Her beauty was also legendary as much as her elegance. She was also pasionate about repliles and the fact that it symbolizes death and rebirth for the Aztecs. This watch design is clearly related to the passion of Maria Felix for replilian jewellery but also a tribute to feminity and non conformisme.^[16].
Ballon bleu also refers to the history of Cartier watchmaking because of its shape of balloon and the strong relationship that Cartier keep( since the creation of the Santos) with the Air.^[17].

1908: Tonneau de Cartier.
1928: Tortue de Cartier.
1957: Baignoire de Cartier.
1973: les must de Cartier.
1983: Panthère de Cartier.
2001: Roadster de Cartier.
2006: Dona de Cartier.
2007: Ballon bleu de Cartier.

Notes et références[modifier | modifier le code]

[1] ttp://www.lesrhabilleurs.com/marque/cartier/histoire.

[2] ttp://www.cartier.co.uk/maison/history-and-stories/cartier-jeweller-kings..

[3] ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Cartier

[4] ttp://gosouthamerica.about.com/cs/brazgeog/p/SantosDumont.htm

[5] ttp://www.montres-de-luxe.com/Santos-Cartier-une-montre-nee-de-l-amitie-d-un-horloger-bijoutier-pour-un-pilote-aventurier_a3023.html

[6] ttp://www.prestigetime.com/brand/cartier.html

[7] ttp://www.lesoir.be/node/15734

[8] ttp://www.montres-de-luxe.com/La-Tank-de-Cartier-le-createur-s-est-inspire-d-un-char-d-assaut_a51.html

[9] ttp://www.lacotedesmontres.com/Une-Tank-est-une-Tank-est-une-Tank-est-une-Tank-Saga-d-une-montre-de-legende-Un-tank-est-entre-chez-Cartier-No_9065.htm

[10] ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartier_Tank

[11] ttp://www.lacotedesmontres.com/Une-Tank-est-une-Tank-est-une-Tank-est-une-Tank-Saga-d-une-montre-de-legende-Un-tank-est-entre-chez-Cartier-No_9065.htm

[12] ttp://watchisthis.com/?tag=1985

[13] ttp://www.cartier.us/collections/timepieces/womens-watches/pasha-de-cartier/pasha-de-cartier-42mm

[14] ttp://www.argusdesmontres.com/cartier/icones/la-pasha-02-12-2012-1537404_1014.php

[15] ttp://www.tendancehorlogerie.com/cartier-horlogerie

[16] ttp://www.thewatchquote.com/Cartier-presents-La-Dona-de-Cartier-with-Maria-Felix-the-oracle-of-the-reptile-style-according-to-Cartier-No_5843.htm

[17] ttp://www.cartier.com/collections/timepieces/mens-watches/ballon-bleu-de-cartier

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